• My water heater is leaking or won’t light, what should I do?

Having a water heater replaced is a costly but sometimes necessary option.  Contacting a licensed bonded and insured plumber to come and see if the water heater can be fixed before replacing it would be a smart move.  If the problem cannot be fixed, the plumber can remove the old one and install a new one right away.

Common water heater problems

Common water heater problems include no hot water, water that isn't hot enough or is too hot, or a water heater that rumbles or leaks.

If you have no hot water or it is not hot enough, check the temperature control. If the setting is okay, it could be that the heater's thermostat is defective.

Replacing a defective thermostat is best left to a professional plumber.

If you have a gas heater, it's possible that the pilot light has gone out. If so, follow the written instructions on the tank to relight it.

It's also possible that the gas inlet valve has been closed partially or all the way; if so, turn the handle parallel to the line and relight the pilot light.

If the pilot light won't light, it may need a cleaning or a new thermocouple. Have these jobs handled by a professional. The same holds true if you have an electric water heater with defective electric heating elements.

If the water is too hot, check the temperature control. If turning it down doesn't help, it may be defective and should be replaced by a professional.

It may also be that the flue on a gas heater may be blocked; clear any obstructions. Defective heating elements may overheat water; if they do, they should be replaced by professionals.

Rumbling and whistling noises can be caused by sediment building up in the tank; draining the tank often helps. Overheated water may also cause rumbling, whistling, or sizzling noises.

If this is caused by defective heating element, call a professional to replace it.

A water leak may be cured simply by tightening the drain valve or by closing a temperature-pressure relief valve that's open.

But if the leak is serious, be aware that water heaters have limited life spans, and it's possible that your tank has become corroded. If that's the case, the water heater must be replaced.

For convenience at the kitchen sink, an instant hot water dispenser can provide almost-boiling hot water through a low-pressure spout at the touch of a lever.

These are essentially very small, on-demand electric water heaters that mount under the sink--or a similar spot-and heat water as it passes by interior electric coils.

What is the life expectancy of a water heater?

 

One frequently asked questions is, "How long should my residential water heater last?".  The answer is not simple. While the average life of a residential heater has been said to be ten to twenty years, many things can affect the life of a water heater. The number of people living in the home, how many tubs/showers are in the home, the size of the heater, the water quality, the temperature of the water are just some of the factors that can affect the life of a water heater.  

• While water softeners are utilized to reduce hardness in water, they can shorten the life a water heater by consuming the anode rod rapidly (generally within one year). Once the anode rod is consumed there is no protection in the water heater to prevent the water from dissolving the seam joints. When a water softener is installed the water softener needs to be bypassed once a year to allow some lime to buildup to protect the heater and slow down the anode rod consumption.

• Thermal expansion usually manifest itself by premature failure of the water tank or leaking relief valves. Thermal Expansion can show up immediately or years down the road or even not at all until the heater fails.

The Clean Water Act of the 1980s had a mandate with recommendation to all water supply companies to install back flow devices in all residential water meters. These backflow devices are safety devices to prevent contaminants from being introduced into the main water supply from an individual residence.  When back flow devices are installed, creating a closed system, sometimes the water companies inform their customers and sometimes they do not.  Also, any home that has a water softener, lawn sprinkler system or a pressure reducing valve must have a thermal expansion tank installed, as a closed system is created by these devices as well.

 

 

What is thermal expansion and/or why do I need a thermal expansion tank?

Thermal Expansion as relates to water heaters/boilers is an increase of the volume (or space taken up) by water within the unit, caused by heat.  In other words, when water heats it expands or takes up more space.  

The excess volume of water, because of pressure created, will flow to the place of least resistance.  Unless a faucet is open, generally this would be into the cold water pipe (this is why sometimes the pipe above the cold water inlet is warm for a few feet). 

In a closed system, the excess volume of water has no place to go and builds pressure within the unit.  When the pressure reaches a certain point, a safety device called a Temperature and Pressure relief valve (T & P) will open relieving pressure.  Over time (perhaps as little as months or as great as years) this increase and decrease in pressure, without the protection of an expansion tank, can weaken the tank causing premature failure.

Generally what is seen is a drip to a stream of water from the T & P that continues until pressure is relieved.  Most often reported is a cup to a few quarts of water a day - to every few days.  And, Usually the release of water is greater after a large amount of hot water has been used - like taking a shower.

These symptoms may be evident immediately upon installation or months to years down the road, or even not at all until the water heater fails. 

What can be done to prevent the water from dripping or leaking at the T&P?

T&P valves should be checked twice a year by opening the handle on the valve and letting out a little bit of water. The purpose of this is to make sure there is no mineral build-up on the inside of the valve and to make sure that the valve reseats itself properly. If the valve does not shut off on its own it is time to call a professional licensed plumber to replace the valve.

If your T&P valve is leaking on its own it could be due to thermal expansion. The best option to prevent this is to have a properly sized thermal expansion tank installed.  If water pressure is above 60 to 70psi, a pressure regulating valve along with a properly sized expansion tank would be used.  Thermal Expansion tanks designed with a diaphragm inside, will allow the excess volume of water to flow into the thermal expansion tank rather than release through the T & P.  For information on thermal expansion tanks offered, please contact a plumber or distributor in your area. 

What creates a closed system?

• A pressure regulating or reducing valve (PRV) in your plumbing system
• A backflow preventor or check valve in your plumbing system
• If your home has a water softener or lawn sprinkler system an expansion tank is required 
• High water pressure into your home can also create a barrier for expanding water

 The mentioned devices may be used in your plumbing system to regulate the water pressure into your home and/or prevent water from your home from backing into the main water supply used by others in your community.  Often these devices are installed underground or in other areas and are unknown to you.   The clean water act of 1974 includes a mandate recommending to all water supply companies to install back flow prevention devices in all residential meters to reduce potential polution from individual homes.  When this device is installed you now have a closed sytem.  Be aware the meter can be changed on your home without your knowledge or notice from from the utility company.

Aqua Flow Plumbing Corporation proudly installs BRADFORD-WHITE as well as Premier Plus Water Heaters for our residential needs!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Full name:
Email address:
Question: