General Questions

• My Kitchen sink faucet is leaking, what options do I have?

There are a few things that can be done to alleviate the issue.  The problem might be just a cartridge or it could be a faucet supply line, you also might want to consider putting in a whole new faucet if the problem is severe.  In which case, contacting a professional licensed bonded and insured plumber should be your first choice.

 

• I have been told my main sewage line is cracked and needs to be replaced, are there any other options?

This is a very costly job and could be as much as 2-20 thousand dollars or more So before having this done Contacting a licensed bonded and insured plumber to camera the line and check if there are any other options or to check and see if there is a hole or a crack that could be replaced instead of the whole line.  We can electronically locate and repair holes in the drain line, or rodd out roots and stoppages in the line.

• My water heater is leaking or won’t light, what should I do?

Having a water heater replaced is a costly but sometimes necessary option.  Contacting a licensed bonded and insured plumber to come and see if the water heater can be fixed before replacing it would be a smart move.  If the problem cannot be fixed, the plumber can remove the old one and install a new one right away.

• I smell gas in my home, what should I do?

You should immediately evacuate the home, contact your local gas company to find out where the problem is coming from and also call a professional plumber to fix the line after the gas company has found the issue.  Gas can be very dangerous so make sure you call them a.s.a.p.

• My garbage disposal is leaking or not working properly, what can I do?

If your garbage disposal is just humming or has stopped working all together, you might not need to replace it just yet, Call a professional plumber to come and see if the problem can be fixed as sometimes a disposal unit could become clogged with food.

• My basement has flooded and I have no electricity, what should I do?

Calling a plumber to come and drain your flooded basement should be your first choice; we also have gas-powered pumps in case your electricity is out so you can stay dry even if you can't watch TV!

Buying and Maintaining Sump Pumps and Basement Sump Pump Systems

Do you have a basement that, during a heavy rain, looks more like a swimming pool? Basement flooding is a common problem, particularly in houses situated on flat terrain where rain and snow melt have little chance for runoff. When the ground becomes saturated, ground water pressure builds, forcing water towards any path of little resistance. If the water finds cracks and fissures in your foundation walls or floors, it easily seeps in to fill the "pool"--your basement. The answer to this problem is a sump pump system. Sump pumps have been keeping basement laundry areas, storage rooms and recreation rooms pond-free in many parts of the country for years. They were first used in the New England and Mid-Atlantic states and Great Lakes regions but as cities have grown, so have water-runoff problems. Now sump pumps are common wherever basement flooding occurs. In fact, many communities require a basement sump pump in all new homes. Sump pump buying options You can buy a new sump pump through do-it-yourself retailers, plumbing wholesalers or waterproofing contractors. The prices range from about $60 to $500 or more, depending upon quality and features. First decide between a pedestal and submersible pump. A submersible is out of sight and earshot, an important advantage if the basement is used as a primary living area. It's also much safer if there are children in the house. But pedestal pumps are less expensive and last longer. Because submersibles sit in water a good deal of the time, they have a life span of from 5 to 15 years. Pedestals, on the other hand, may continue to operate for as long as 25 or 30 years. (Because a pump's life is closely related to the conditions and frequency of its use, most manufacturers offer limited 1-year warranties.) Pedestal pumps are also much easier to repair. Automatic switches come in several types, including floats, diaphragms and mercury switches. It doesn't really matter which type you choose--but be sure to choose one of them. By the precepts of Murphy's Law, if you put in a pump with a manual control, you won't be home to turn it on the next time your basement begins to flood. An automatic switch can protect the pump, too. Most pumps burn out if they run "dry" for too long. An automatic switch prevents this from happening. Price is directly connected to a unit's strength. Almost without exception, the least expensive models are also the weakest. A sump pump is measured by horsepower--pumps range from 1/6 to 1/2 HP. But more important is the number of gallons per minute (GPM) or gallons per hour (GPH) a pump will move. This capacity is a factor of both the pump's efficiency and the "head" or "lift"--that is, the vertical distance from the bottom of the sump to the highest point of discharge. A pump may advertise "2400 GPH" but this may be measured at a 1-foot head. At a 5-foot head, that figure might drop to 2100 GPH and at 10-feet, 1800 GPH. Also note whether the pump is strong enough to pass small solids, such as leaves and twigs. Materials that make up a pump also affect price. Look for parts and housings that won't corrode--cast bronze, alloy, stainless steel and epoxy-coated cast iron housings are favorable; avoid sheet metal. Polypropylene and related plastics are used in all grades of pumps. Pay attention to the power cord's length, too. They come with 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25-foot-long power cords. Extension cords shouldn't be used with sump pumps.

Common water heater problems

Common water heater problems include no hot water, water that isn't hot enough or is too hot, or a water heater that rumbles or leaks.

If you have no hot water or it is not hot enough, check the temperature control. If the setting is okay, it could be that the heater's thermostat is defective.

Replacing a defective thermostat is best left to a professional plumber.

If you have a gas heater, it's possible that the pilot light has gone out. If so, follow the written instructions on the tank to relight it.

It's also possible that the gas inlet valve has been closed partially or all the way; if so, turn the handle parallel to the line and relight the pilot light.

If the pilot light won't light, it may need a cleaning or a new thermocouple. Have these jobs handled by a professional. The same holds true if you have an electric water heater with defective electric heating elements.

If the water is too hot, check the temperature control. If turning it down doesn't help, it may be defective and should be replaced by a professional.

It may also be that the flue on a gas heater may be blocked; clear any obstructions. Defective heating elements may overheat water; if they do, they should be replaced by professionals.

Rumbling and whistling noises can be caused by sediment building up in the tank; draining the tank often helps. Overheated water may also cause rumbling, whistling, or sizzling noises.

If this is caused by defective heating element, call a professional to replace it.

A water leak may be cured simply by tightening the drain valve or by closing a temperature-pressure relief valve that's open.

But if the leak is serious, be aware that water heaters have limited life spans, and it's possible that your tank has become corroded. If that's the case, the water heater must be replaced.

For convenience at the kitchen sink, an instant hot water dispenser can provide almost-boiling hot water through a low-pressure spout at the touch of a lever.

These are essentially very small, on-demand electric water heaters that mount under the sink--or a similar spot-and heat water as it passes by interior electric coils.

What is the life expectancy of a water heater?

 

One frequently asked questions is, "How long should my residential water heater last?".  The answer is not simple. While the average life of a residential heater has been said to be ten to twenty years, many things can affect the life of a water heater. The number of people living in the home, how many tubs/showers are in the home, the size of the heater, the water quality, the temperature of the water are just some of the factors that can affect the life of a water heater.  

• While water softeners are utilized to reduce hardness in water, they can shorten the life a water heater by consuming the anode rod rapidly (generally within one year). Once the anode rod is consumed there is no protection in the water heater to prevent the water from dissolving the seam joints. When a water softener is installed the water softener needs to be bypassed once a year to allow some lime to buildup to protect the heater and slow down the anode rod consumption.

• Thermal expansion usually manifest itself by premature failure of the water tank or leaking relief valves. Thermal Expansion can show up immediately or years down the road or even not at all until the heater fails.

The Clean Water Act of the 1980s had a mandate with recommendation to all water supply companies to install back flow devices in all residential water meters. These backflow devices are safety devices to prevent contaminants from being introduced into the main water supply from an individual residence.  When back flow devices are installed, creating a closed system, sometimes the water companies inform their customers and sometimes they do not.  Also, any home that has a water softener, lawn sprinkler system or a pressure reducing valve must have a thermal expansion tank installed, as a closed system is created by these devices as well.

 

 

What is thermal expansion and/or why do I need a thermal expansion tank?

Thermal Expansion as relates to water heaters/boilers is an increase of the volume (or space taken up) by water within the unit, caused by heat.  In other words, when water heats it expands or takes up more space.  

The excess volume of water, because of pressure created, will flow to the place of least resistance.  Unless a faucet is open, generally this would be into the cold water pipe (this is why sometimes the pipe above the cold water inlet is warm for a few feet). 

In a closed system, the excess volume of water has no place to go and builds pressure within the unit.  When the pressure reaches a certain point, a safety device called a Temperature and Pressure relief valve (T & P) will open relieving pressure.  Over time (perhaps as little as months or as great as years) this increase and decrease in pressure, without the protection of an expansion tank, can weaken the tank causing premature failure.

Generally what is seen is a drip to a stream of water from the T & P that continues until pressure is relieved.  Most often reported is a cup to a few quarts of water a day - to every few days.  And, Usually the release of water is greater after a large amount of hot water has been used - like taking a shower.

These symptoms may be evident immediately upon installation or months to years down the road, or even not at all until the water heater fails. 

What can be done to prevent the water from dripping or leaking at the T&P?

T&P valves should be checked twice a year by opening the handle on the valve and letting out a little bit of water. The purpose of this is to make sure there is no mineral build-up on the inside of the valve and to make sure that the valve reseats itself properly. If the valve does not shut off on its own it is time to call a professional licensed plumber to replace the valve.

If your T&P valve is leaking on its own it could be due to thermal expansion. The best option to prevent this is to have a properly sized thermal expansion tank installed.  If water pressure is above 60 to 70psi, a pressure regulating valve along with a properly sized expansion tank would be used.  Thermal Expansion tanks designed with a diaphragm inside, will allow the excess volume of water to flow into the thermal expansion tank rather than release through the T & P.  For information on thermal expansion tanks offered, please contact a plumber or distributor in your area. 

What creates a closed system?

• A pressure regulating or reducing valve (PRV) in your plumbing system
• A backflow preventor or check valve in your plumbing system
• If your home has a water softener or lawn sprinkler system an expansion tank is required 
• High water pressure into your home can also create a barrier for expanding water

 The mentioned devices may be used in your plumbing system to regulate the water pressure into your home and/or prevent water from your home from backing into the main water supply used by others in your community.  Often these devices are installed underground or in other areas and are unknown to you.   The clean water act of 1974 includes a mandate recommending to all water supply companies to install back flow prevention devices in all residential meters to reduce potential polution from individual homes.  When this device is installed you now have a closed sytem.  Be aware the meter can be changed on your home without your knowledge or notice from from the utility company.

My water is smelly or dark colored.

How can I get rid of that rotten egg smell?  

Ever experienced water that smells like rotten eggs? It's not pleasant. Information included here will help you understand what causes this circumstance and how to treat it.

Smelly water or the "rotten egg" smell in hot water is caused by sulfate reducing bacteria in the water. While the smell is a nuisance, the bacteria is not harmful.

To aid in the prevention of future occurrences, we would also recommend the use of anode rod. See your local distributor to purchase this part.

For well water and repeated problems with smelly water, chlorination of the well in addition to the water heater may be necessary.

PROCEDURE FOR CHLORINATION OF WELLS

Problems of iron bacteria, organic growths, algae, and their associated tastes and odors, can often be eliminated by a complete chlorination of the well and distribution piping. (See exceptions under “Note” below.) Bacteria, while harmless, utilize iron in water for their growth and in so doing surround themselves with relatively large slimy masses of iron. They attach themselves and grow on all surfaces in contact with the water. Pressure tanks, storage tanks, softeners, or filters offer excellent breeding places. They can be completely destroyed in most cases by thoroughly chlorinating the well and complete piping system. The method commonly used to chlorinate household wells is as follows:

• Flush pressure tank to remove all loose sedimentary material.
• Mix 2 gallons of household bleach and 4 ounces of soluble food grade Polyphosphate (MCC-505) in approximately 5 gallons of water.
• Remove the top well casing seal and pour entire contents into well.
• Connect a hose to any outside faucet and insert the discharge end of the hose into the well casing.
• Open the faucet and allow the water to circulate for about 15 minutes.

While the water is circulating, open each hot and cold water tap until a chlorine odor can be detected.

• NOTE: It would be ideal at this point to loosen the top spud of the pressure tank so that the entire tank will fill with chlorine solution. The tank can later be drained and recharged with air.
• Pour 1 more gallon of undiluted bleach into the well casing and continue to circulate for an additional 15 minutes.
•  After the circulating period, the system should be shut down and allowed to remain quiet for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.
• Do not use water, except for toilets, until the system has been thoroughly flushed.
• Flush the well first by removing the hose from the well casing and opening the hose faucet until the discharge is free of chlorine.
• Then open each hot and cold tap and allow to run until water is free of chlorine.

NOTE: The above chlorination procedure is not effective for removing all of the rotten egg odor of sulfur waters, or for killing bacteria where septic drainage, etc. has contaminated the underground water supply. In these cases, or when the well is such that it cannot be chlorinated, continuous chlorination with a chemical solution pump and filtration through an activated carbon filter is recommended. In severe cases of pollution, relocation of the well is the best alternative.

You can also check the county web sight for more information on cleaning your water.

Toilets 101 - What are all the parts in the tank?

 

The Water Control or Fill Valve commonly called a ballcock is the means of supplying and controlling the water level in a tank. This is usually located in the left side of the toilet tank and is connected to the water shut-off valve in the floor or wall by a short water supply line. This part can and will fail over time and will either not let any water into the toilet tank or it may not shut off and continue to let water into the toilet tank overfilling it.

The Trip Lever is located on the outside of the tank, and is used to actuate the flush valve to initiate the flushing cycle.

The Flapper is a rubber disc that retains water in the tank. Upon flushing it lifts to release water out of the tank and into the bowl for a complete flushing cycle. This part can and will also fail over time and allow water to leak from the toilet tank to the toilet bowl. This leak usually goes unnoticed until a large water bill is received from the city or municipality.

 

The Douglas valve or Flush Valve is located at the bottom of the tank and is used to discharge the water from the tank into the bowl. The Flapper sits on top of the Douglas Valve.

      I have a problem with my toilet tank filling

 

If you have a older style fill valve in your toilet, turn the water level adjustment screw, located on the top center of the ballcock (The ballcock is the part that the float-ball and arm are attached to and controls the water entering the tank) the screw should be turned counter-clockwise to raise the water level in the tank (clockwise to lower the water level) Turn the screw in 1/4 turn increments until you have the desired water level. NOTE: If your ballcock has two screws, the screw to the right of the water level adjustment screw controls the rate of the water entering the tank through the ballcock. If your toilet tank does not have a float-ball and arm attached to the ballcock, the water level adjustment is made by moving the float cup on the ballcock shaft up or down by squeezing the water level adjustment clip and moving the float cup up or down along the stainless steel link.

What can I do to achieve optimum toilet performance?

 

 

All major toilet manufactures do not recommend the use of bluing agents or in-tank cleaners. Since some of these products may contain chlorine, they may damage the rubber components in your tank. If you have used these types of cleaners, you may want to replace your flapper and other rubber parts in your toilet such as the tank bolts seals, Douglas valve seals,

Everyone knows a mirror can be very revealing. The same holds true for your toilet bowl. Standing in front of your toilet bowl, take a mirror and hold it inside the bowl, looking up at the rim. Take a look at the rim holes, which provide water to cleanse your bowl during flushing. If you notice materials blocking the holes, take a six or eight penny nail, and work around the whole bowl to remove the mineral deposits being careful to follow the contour of the holes. After you have removed the mineral deposits, you should see a better flush since you have effectively increased the volume of water entering the bowl.

To give your toilet a quick check-up be sure the water level in the tank is no lower than 1/2" below the top of the overflow tube. The float on the chain should be as close to the flapper as possible. Check the slack on the chain; it should only have 1/4" of slack. To measure the slack - depress the trip lever. The arm should move a maximum of 1/4" before it activates the flapper.

• My toilet keeps running or it is leaking around the base.

There are 2 main things that could cause the toilet to not function properly in the tank, the ballcock, or the flapper, but there can be several others, such as tank to bowl bolts or a toilet handle malfunctioning, all of which can be repaired at home.  However if the tank is cracked or it is leaking at the base of the toilet you more than likely need the wax ring replaced or a whole new toilet installed.  Contacting a professional licensed bonded and insured plumber would be your best bet.

What features should I consider when purchasing a toilet?

Toilets come in round and elongated sizes, with many different shapes, styles and colors to choose from. Elongated toilets are the best choice for most homes, while round styles are popular where space is at a premium. The style you select is a matter of personal taste, and you can choose from a variety of styles, ranging from contemporary to traditional.

Standard toilet height is around 14 1/2” from the floor to the bowl rim, without a toilet seat. In recent years toilet bowl height has increased to assist people with sitting and standing up, for the benefit of taller people, and those with physical handicaps and/or the elderly. The newest and most popular comfort height is typically around 16 1/8” floor to rim. The standard ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) height toilets must have, a 17”-19” floor to bowl rim height, including the seat.

You should also consider the toilet rough-in from the wall, which is commonly 12”. To measure the rough-in distance of your toilet measure from the bolts holding the toilet to the floor to the wall behind the toilet. Other rough-in’s in older homes can be 10” or 14”. This is important as many toilet models are available in 12” rough-in’s, but if you have a unique rough-in (10” or 14”), your selection of style may be limited.

What is the difference between gravity-fed & pressure assisted toilets?

 

The traditional toilet flush is gravity-fed. All the water stored in the tank rushes down, forcing everything out through a built-in pipe called the trap. The trap curves down, then up like an elbow. Water fills it to keep sewer gases from entering the house.

 

There is an alternative flush type called pressure-assisted. A vessel inside the tank holds trapped, compressed air. It acts like a spring to shoot the water forward at a high rate of speed. A large percentage of the 1.6 gallons of water used is delivered directly to a jet at the bottom of the bowl. The jet is very powerful and is the force that removes the waste.

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